The myrmecophytic Tillandsia bulbosa

I have a special fondness for those plants that are so lazy to gather their own nutrients that they manipulate animals for that function.

Alright, I am not of course that serious on the lazy part, but there are indeed plants that have formed mutualistic relationships with ants- marvel of nature, you might say. Myrmecophytes- or those plant species that have formed symbiotic relationship with ants- are found in a wide range of families, from trees and large climbers like Acacia from the family Fabaceae and Poikilospermum from the family Urticaceae, to smaller and more specialized plants like the famed and bizarre ant plants (from the genera Anthorrhiza, Hydnophytum, Myrmecodia, Myrmephytum, and Squamellaria) of family Rubiaceae (which also includes the fragrant Gardenia and the economically important Coffea, the coffee) and the vining members of the family Apocynaceae that produce both the normal and laminate leaves, and the specialized domatia leaves that serve to house ants (particularly Dischidia vidallii and allies, and Hoya darwinii, H. mitrata, and H. undulata), as well as those that produce the concave leaves that are also colonized by ants, such as the Dischidia imbricata group, and Hoya imbricata. Ant hosting ferns are also known, which include the genus Lecanopteris, and there are orchids that attract ants too for eventual colonization, such as from the genera Grammatophyllum and Myrmecophila. Among the most prevalent family in the Neotropics is the Bromeliaceae, whose most popular member is Ananas, the pineapple. And within this family are the very specialized Tillandsia which also contain myrmecophytic species, which can be distinguished by their pseudobulbous bases, which are not tightly overlapping but provided with spaces that ants can eventually occupy. Examples from this group, which I believe number to 13 species, include T. caput-medusae, T. baileyi, and T. seleriana. The most common in cultivation however, is T. bulbosa, a native of Central America and extending southwards to northern and eastern South America.

Frankly, I do not know how long I have had my plants- possibly around 10 years already- but I do remember starting out with a single specimen which has now produced so many side growths that late last year, I was compelled to divide after the entire clump fell down due to too much disintegration of the tree fern slab it used to be attached to. The clump have grown so large that the slab just eventually collapsed from the weight. So now the divided plants are attached on a trunk of kakawate (Gliricidia sepium), the wood of which is known for its density and resistance to the actions of wood boring insects, including ants. Perfect for an ant-hosting plant, if you ask me. However, since the division, I rarely see the ants anymore, although I do see some activity particularly during the late afternoons. Once they have returned in sufficient numbers, I'll take photographs and update this post.

Tillandsia bulbosa with companion tillandsias, under full sun

Like practically all the other tillandsias, this species requires very little care. They can withstand typhoons and long periods of heat and dryness for as long as a few considerations are met. One, make sure that no medium is wrapped around their roots- if you want to wrap coconut husks around their roots then go keep an orchid instead and read more about tillandsias before acquiring one. Tillandsia roots are only attachment mechanisms and play very little role in nutrient absorption; that task belong to the leaves. And yet those roots have to have access to air movement to keep their health. Have those roots artificially confined and you are unwittingly contributing to the demise of the plant/s.

Two, except for softer-leaved species, you have to allow your plants access to lots of light. This is particularly true for those that have silvery scales on their leaves. Tillandsia bulbosa also have those, but quite minimal, but they do also require plenty of light. Failure to provide enough insolation results in weak, short-lived plants.

Three, water tillandsias only when you feel like it. Seriously. But do mist them often. Misting provides a more natural means of providing moisture to the plants and lower the risk of the bases rotting due to excessive water, especially on days when air movement is found wanting.

Four, and I feel this to be really important, allow your bulbosas to be colonized by ants. Do not deny what is natural for them or you may as well settle instead for non-myrmecophytic species. Those ants provide the bulbosas with the nutrients they require, which eliminates any need to fertilize the plants. Granted, the ants may be of the more aggressive kinds, but hey, instead of fretting over the ant bites you are likely to incur when you get too near the plants, take comfort in the fact that you are witnessing a natural phenomenon, one that is very rarely observed by gardeners who favor the more innocuous plants. You want your plants to look cute? Go and get plastic flowers in neon colors instead.

Speaking of fertilizers, if you feel the need to administer your tillandsias with one, make sure that the concentration is very weak and be aware that fertilizer salts can accumulate in the leaf bases which can have disastrous consequences later. You can always flush away those salts through heavy waterings or mistings, but personally, I am not keen on the extra trouble. I let the ants do the fertilizing on my ant plants. I am that lazy.

The flowers of T. bulbosa, like in other Tillandsia species, are tubular.

P.S. You may sometimes see 'Giant' bulbosas being marketed but I think it's just a ploy. My plants were the typical bulbosas, yet over the years they have grown to sizes comparable to the so-called 'Giants'. Just get their cultivation right and you will be rewarded with large and healthy plants.