What is the perfect Alocasia mix?

I acquired my first Alocasia sinuata from one of the stalls at the now-defunct (or destroyed) Manila Seedling Bank Foundation in Quezon Avenue, Quezon City about 2006 or 2007, though my first Alocasia was likely an A. boyceana, from 2001. Back then, I maintained the plants in the soil they were in, which was mainly coco 'peat' and rice hulls; this is the default potting mix across thousands upon thousands of nurseries in operation within the Philippines, then and now. The plants perished not long after. Already at that period, I was already studying plants in their native habitats and knew that I was missing something. I had to get an idea of how they were growing in their habitats if I wanted to put an end to those episodes when the plants would suddenly fade to smelly goo despite my adoring attention. The opportunity to observe A. sinuata in the wild came in February 2010: all the plants in the wild were growing on rocks, specifically limestone, with very thin layers of detritus. The plants were growing on slopes, which meant that drainage is exceptional, and the porous nature of the rocks meant that the roots are almost always on the dryish side, even during the rainy season (I have had at least two more observations of this species, one was during the 'wet period', in August). The plants get a few hours of filtered morning sunshine, otherwise it's bright shade for the rest of the day. For more information, proceed here. The lessons were clear. By mid-2010, I was ready for A. sinuata again, and I acquired a couple of plants from, I believe, in Baclaran, Pasay City. One is shown here, from my own post back in November, 2010. The plants were put in an extremely free-draining mixture of mainly rocks, including limestone, with only very little organic matter. It has been more than ten years now since I had it figured out. This protocol of using a rock-heavy mix has since been applied on other Alocasia species too, with the exception of a small-growing clone of A. macrorrhizos which I kept until I moved to a new address in 2014. Admittedly, I tweak the mix a bit for some species, especially for those species which I know are hailing from heavier substrates, but the principle remains the same: excellent drainage is Criteria Number One, and this can only be accomplished by the use of rocks.*  



 

The reason I am writing this is to address the question: what constitutes the perfect Alocasia mix? To which my steadfast reply would be: there is no such thing. Because...

Because our conditions differ. I really cannot ask you to change your potting mix and get a truckload of gravel because what works for me may prove disastrous for you. A heavily organic mix** might work in drier areas or in a greenhouse, but not in plants that are maintained outdoors and exposed, to some degree, to the whims of nature. Be leery of people who advocate their own recipes openly on social media- these for me are plain ego-tripping by beginners who are yet to taste that bitter and humiliating yet learning concoction that only years of experience can bring. People who have been collecting plants for a respectable period of time will tell you what their mixes are, but will often remind you that your own climate and conditions will ultimately decide whether a soil mix is advisable for you or not, no matter how effective it is for him/her. So be observant of your own climate and micro-climate, and suit your growing techniques, including soil mixes, according to it. Familiarize yourself with the properties of these ingredients and do not be afraid to experiment. Read, read, and read some more. Learn how to cross reference. If you are keen enough, you should be able to figure it out yourself. As a side note, imagine if you asked me in 2001 what I think what the 'best' soil mix for alocasias was. My own inexperience during that time would only tell you the extent of what I know then, which you might think was worth emulating, but what I knew in 2010 was very different from what I knew nine years before. And to be very honest about it, my soil mix for alocasias is still evolving to this day, almost twenty years later, because I find that I continually have to acquire new knowledge and throw away established ones if I really wanted to succeed with these often very touchy plants. The wisdom of "I know that I know nothing" applies perfectly here.

Oh and by the way, I never resorted to Facebook for answers. Never have, never will. If you are a beginner, be reminded that Facebook groups are the worst sources of information you could ever run to. You'll get many different answers for just a single question, and you likely cannot tell which of the paragons truly know their stuff and which ones were not loved by their moms while they were growing up. There are myriad sources out there for legitimate information. Start with IPNI and the Kew Monocot List to see if the names you know truly exists or not, then hunt down plant fora and online publications if you are thirsty for more information. Many vlogs and blogs are pure junk food for the brain (except this one, but you already know that) so tread carefully. And steer clear from people who claim that experience is not a prerequisite for one to be successful. Treat them like you would treat plague.

*For such plants, the soil mix is more than 90% rocks (basaltic AND pumice, then layered with crumbly clay and/or laterite at the top. My current go-to, all-purpose mix is a combination of basalt (that's construction gravel, my friend) and pumice and augmented with coco chunks. I'm not into ratios but the end result is something like 95% rocks. For prima donnas, I might lessen the basalt and add leca as well as leaf mould, but only as a sparse top layer. My plants derive their nutrition from commercial fertilizers (not vermicast and certainly not monosodium glutamate like some cretins would espouse!) and they are showered with fungicide once a week.

**I know I said that there is no such thing as a perfect mix for alocasias, but one that is brimming with organics (including a healthy serving of vermicast) sits at the top of my Dumbest Alocasia Mix category. Que horror. People who advocate this abomination do not have the patience and zen of true gardeners and would like their plants to shoot up to make these as IG-worthy as soon as possible. Excessive nitrogen will make your plants weak- think of your awkward and gangling high school or college classmate who's tall enough to play basketball but cannot because, well... he can't even jump or run. He can't even scream loud enough to cheer his 'mates on the court as he warms the team bench. Plus, once all those ingredients have decayed to an amorphous mush, you will have to repot and disturb your plants' roots because if you don't, then those same roots will burn from a progressively acidifying soil which also deals you the double whammy of impeded drainage because it's turned to nothing but muck. As a fair warning: alocasias. Do. Not. Like. Root. Disturbance. But if you still wanna insist, then do as you please. See if I care once your plants transmogrify into smelly goo.

'right, I'm outta here.

Comments

  1. One of the 'junk food' information on the web which for me contradicts statements per statement. Worthwhile reading though to those who wants to use their idle time.

    Agree to the idea that not all that is effected to one might be effective to others.

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    1. For starters- and this is just my opinion- there is no such thing as a sort of an acceptable, universal soil mix for these plants. If I were living someplace else, I might've resorted to a slightly different mix. Which is why a thorough familiarization of the properties of available ingredients and careful observations of one's climate are imperative. It seems to me that way too many people espouse their own recipes without giving thought to other variables.

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    2. Great articles indeed! I grew a lot of Alocasia and the jewel Alocasia! Really, pretty much any loose medium are perfect for it! I tent to mix with perlites, Akadama soils and organic soils! Medium are important but really, it is only part of it, another factors: heaps of bright lights, warm and slow release fertilizer! Some people once told me they don’t their roots to be disturbed! I disagree with that, that is the part when the medium are important a, they all need loose mediums! Neutral PH mediums are the best, once the plant decided to grow, changing medium, repoting to bigger pot, it will grows heaps of roots, and of course bigger plants; flowered eventually or given out heaps of bulbs!

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    3. Great articles indeed! I grew a lot of Alocasia and the jewel Alocasia! Really, pretty much any loose medium are perfect for it! I tent to mix with perlites, Akadama soils and organic soils! Medium are important but really, it is only part of it, another factors: heaps of bright lights, warm and slow release fertilizer! Some people once told me they don’t their roots to be disturbed! I disagree with that, that is the part when the medium are important a, they all need loose mediums! Neutral PH mediums are the best, once the plant decided to grow, changing medium, repoting to bigger pot, it will grows heaps of roots, and of course bigger plants; flowered eventually or given out heaps of bulbs!

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    4. Been considering akadama for quite some time now. However, it does disintegrate over time, and my often very humid microclimate should make short work of it. Still not closing my door on the material, though. But yeah, just to be on the safe side a neutral pH should work best. Alocasias do tend to thrive on benign neglect. That and being kept in small pots. Once I see roots poking out of the drainage holes then it's time to repot. A very fast-draining medium is imperative! Additionally, many seem to be under the impression that these plants like it shady, but I have found it to contribute to these plants' eventual demise. Thanks for mentioning the importance of bright lighting!

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    5. Yes akadama does degraded overtime, however they come with different grade: the one that had been used for succulents, the quality are amazing, it last me for over a year, by that time they due for repoting anyway. I find it also, do not throw away the old akadama soils, those can be reuse for any jungle plants or even begonia! Anyway, I speak from my own experience, whatever works for me might not works for others!
      P/s do not just stick with akadama soils, need to mix them around with perlites, spaghnum and organic soils, for those who having difficulty to find akadama soils, alternative can trial with the ADA aquatic soils! It might be expensive but they works too! I have to keep emphasised, brights lights are important factors! Not sure everyone know this, I’m a big fans of created your own genes, that’s making your own seeds and cross them around in between plants! To induce flower, it sometimes depends on the temperature, manipulate the temperature difference can actually induce inflorescence!

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    6. Many plants do bloom according to seasons, and it is punctuated often by temperature. I reckon that it would take at least two years before plants can be cycled and adjusted to manipulated temps. because on the first year they will just follow their own accustomed rhythms.

      Akadama is being used here mostly for haworthias and the fancy hybrid aloes, and I have heard of some people swearing on the effectivity of ADA. I grow rainforest plants too; akadama might prove useful not just for begonias but elatostemas too. But I must admit, I have never even considered that if it weren't for your reply, so thanks for that!

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    7. No worries! Happy to share with my own experience! I’m a plant nerds! I really enjoy growing things from a small bulb to a fully grown specimen! Nothing more rewarding for that! And hopefully all these plants can be revive and keep circulating around the collectors! And I cannot emphasis enough, it is really hard to get to those jewel alocasia! People should do more research and understanding how to grow them well before actually buying one!

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  3. Just dropping Hello from Ireland!
    Your blog is a treasure trove of gardening information!! I am originally from Catanduanes and living in cold, dreary, gloomy Ireland is a huge challenge for a wannabe indoor plant enthusiast like me.
    I have Alocasia Zebrina and Alocasia Cuprea that are grown in pots and they are my treasured plant possesions.
    BTW came across your article on Ludisia Ravanii whilst looking for care tips for my Ludisia Discolor.
    I am a new fan! Salamat.

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    1. Hi Mara! Glad to know that the blog is proving to be of some use to people like you. Stormy Catanduanes! I have friends who live there and some have lost a huge number of plants from the recent typhoon; seems like growing plants is a challenge anywhere and the most we can do is replicate what they need despite what nature- or the climate- intends.

      Ludisia discolor is, I believe, the easiest of the jewel orchids. Morning/afternoon sun but shady for the rest of the day, with moderate waterings. What you need to keep in mind is that their fleshy rhizomes store water and nutrients. Many people fall under the impression that these plants require lots of water as they hailed from tropical rainforests. Though true, they actually often creep on bare rock, on slopes. So however strong a downpour is, they do dry rather quickly. I hope that helps!

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